OIRCC HIGH NOTES NEWSLETTER
VOLUME 4 FEBRUARY/MARCH 1997 NUMBER 1
PUBLISHED by the OAKLAND INTERNATIONAL ROLLER CANARY CLUB to improve the advancement, breeding, and exhibition of Roller Canaries.
OIRCC Club Objectives: To advocate the development and advancement of the Roller Canary. To create a better understanding of, and demand for the Roller Canary. To encourage members in scientific breeding. To hold a song contest annually at which birds raised and owned by club members and non-members can be adjudicated upon by an official Judge. The 100 point song standard shall be used. To promote the welfare and prosperity of the club.
Membership Renewal' REMINDER: 1997 Dues are still only
$25.00 per year. This includes your subscription to the. HIGH
NOTES Newsletter. Please renew now to continue receiving the quality information is this Newsletter and all others through 1997. A list of delinquent members is contained in the back of this issue. Thank you for supporting the Oakland Roller Canary Club. A Web site will be announced in the following issue of HIGH NOTES!!!
Master Breeders Corner
By Jim Naquin
Now that the contests are over, we must turn our attention to the up coming breeding season. Now you cull your birds so drastically that you have nothing but the best of stock to breed with.
I use one male with five or more hens---always quality not quantity. A fancier should know where the outstanding quality lies in his/her stock. Your must make every effort to retain at least one full brother or two sisters,
if available, of his finest males. If these latter possess excellent tone, the sisters and brothers will pass this quality on to their offspring if their mates come from progenitors expressing equal quality.
It seems to be the usual rule among new breeders to use whatever tutor they can get regardless of strain or what is recommended to them. This new addition is not only bred into the present stock but used for training purposes.
This haphazard method in the mixture of blood lines creates confusion within the strain and leads the breeder further from their goal.
New fanciers are receptive to suggestions along these lines when older breeders tell them that they need new blood in their birds.
The need for blood refreshment is recognized by the top breeders, only when cases of clear eggs, as well as a general weakness in the strain.
Old timers go as long as ten years without new blood and when new blood is brought in. it is with a trio of birds singing (tone) in the same direction.
Should you decide to bring in new birds, they must be purchased at least one month before you intend to use them in your breeding program.
They will adjust quickly to different handling and surroundings.
Most hens will works if given half the chance. It's a natural instinct for them to raise their young and will do what comes naturally if they are healthy and happy. For this they must have clean flights, fresh air,
clean water for drinking and bathing, a balanced diet, and a controlled pest program all year round. Most disappointments in the breeding rooms are caused by neglecting to correctly care for the birds.
I prepare my hens young and old for the next breeding season as soon as they come out of the breeding cage.
This is done by keeping a balanced diet in front of them at all times.
Every seed I feed with an abundance of greens.
Normally, they will not over eat any one seed. When old hens go into molt, small amounts of whatever nestling food you use, should be given several times a week.
It is light that starts the breeding cycle. The quickest way to speed up the breeding season is to extend the feeding time by extending the daylight hours.
I have a timer that is set to turn on 1 1/2 hours before daylight, then add 15 minutes weekly. It is easier to add your light in the morning and let nature take care of the dimming out at night.
Under this system, it is not necessary to feed stimulating food that causes your early season problems: clear eggs, non setting, abandon nests, etc.. Raising top quality rollers is a huge challenge.
Yes. luck plays a part but I found out early on that the harder I work the luckier I get. When you start believing in your own magic, the little roller canaries will teach you humility.
Devotion In the Roller Canary Hobby
By the late Haig Sarkisian
It has occurred to me that many things are taken for granted in this fine country we live in. An example of this lies in the everyday habits that we form. It is very difficult to cover everything,
but I would like to touch on a few items that might improve the Roller canary hobby. We might first look at ourselves in the mirror and ask the question. ' What can I do to better the hobby and get
more out of what it has to offer?' I am a firm believer that the more we put into anything the move we will get out of it. We will have been busy breeding birds in the past months to make a good
impression at the shows. Of course, we all know that like begets like so that our time has not been wasted. It would be a shame to have bred a fine team of birds and not have a show to put them in.
The following will try to enlighten the fancy to the fact that it takes all the fanciers to band together to form a strong fancy.
I would like to mention men like Charles Radnik, who has been show manager of the Lou Abbott Roller Canary Club of Ohio for 28 years. A devotion like this should inspire the many who should do more
in any way they can to advance the fancy. For the average fancier who raises a few birds, I think that at least he could is plan to show a team of birds, for I have seen many fanciers that had fine
birds and because of certain things that are unavoidable. refused to show their birds.
I think that everyone should feel that it is his personal obligation to see that his birds attend all the show that are available. This is the only way that he or she can find out what his birds
will do in open competition, to see if they are inferior to the top birds.
and to see what can be done to correct the condition. Many time the birds are not at fault at all as the feeding and training is most important 12 months of the year.
It is also very advisable to attend the shows and listen to the birds which will provide an education in showing and in song. Many times you will hear something in a bird that you should have in your birds,
and unless you attend the shows you can never hear anything but your own birds. The score sheet is proof positive of the results, but so many times these birds were in the hands of an expert and performed as
well as they were trained. My suggestion is to attend the shows whenever possible so that a comparison can be witnessed. I took a trip to Germany and attended the Meisterschaft and gained invaluable knowledge
in the Roller song plus the feeding and training which the old masters were so kind to tell me. As a member of the many clubs in the United States, I think that one should consider joining a Roller Club because
through the contact and discussions with the many breeders, ideas can be had that would take years to invent if a person were to experience each and every one of them personally.
As a member of the Oakland Roller Canary Club, I have worked-as many have before me-to incorporate the open judging, which in itself will do more for the fancier than all the books that can be read about song
and performance of the birds in the judging room. In 1969 the Oakland Club had the services of the late George Manley of Torrance CA, who in my estimation is a judge that has no peers. While the birds are in
the judging room there will be many fine comments about the birds which are so important to the breeder of the birds and the audience who might be
learning or looking for blood refreshment. To the many Roller
fanciers that cannot attend a Roller show, I would suggest that they form small clubs and hold parlor shows which have been so successful in the past until the fancy in the area is large enough to hold a large show.
At these shows or contests the breeder should always be aware of the competition, as the quality of the birds is so important. It is a breeder's obligation to improve the song of the Roller canary and not just to
breed Rollers for quantity. May I add further that it should be a sense of pride and duty of the breeder to always try to give the best advice to the novice, for through your honest efforts, the novice may some
day be our master breeder. I cannot stress the importance of always starting the novice out with fine birds. This way he will be encouraged at the shows and also his ears will be rewarded by the fine tone of good
birds. The fancy has neglected in the past to advance the hobby by not letting good birds go to deserving individuals. To the beginner I would mention that one good bird is worth twenty average birds in the
breeding room, and they all eat the same amount of food.
Another bit of advice to the fancier is to ask questions. When you don't have any questions to ask, you are at the end of line. After 20 years in the Roller fancy, I feel that there is more to learn that what I have forgotten.
It is surprising what the unsuspecting novice can give you in the way of good advice, and to close your ears to this is foolish, as I personally have been rewarded many times by such advice.
Breed your best to your best and you ran never go wrong. (This article originally appeared in Bird Cage Magazine in 1969.....)
Considering the Breeding Season
By Justin Agrella
The shows are over and we all should have a good idea of how successful our pondering, pouring and planning has been. It is now our task to plan for this coming breeding season. Get out
your records and see which pairs have given you the best stock.
There are breeders who have devoted years of study to the perfecting of their breed and they now have birds better in song an stronger in stamina. So if your first efforts do not succeed remember there will be a bright future ahead if you just keep moving toward the betterment of you stock.
For those of you just beginning, get in touch with someone who has stock of proven quality. Listen to the stock for yourself, if possible, and listen to the breeder particularly. He or she has gained knowledge through experience.
If your budget permits, get two males and four hens (two trios). Try to get all of the first pairings to go to nest about the same time. Then in case of any misfortune with a pair, the eggs of the young when hatched can be
transferred to another hen. It also saves trouble in making nestling food, for it is just as easy to make food for fours nests. Having an established breed does not settle all difficulties, however. One will be naturally
anxious to get started. Remember the wisdom of "more haste, less speed" here. Putting birds together before they are in the proper condition and stimulating them into condition too early are doubtlessly the cause of more
losses and problems than all other causes put together.
When kept under normal conditions and not stimulated by the use of rich oily seeds, light, and/or heat the bird will not, as a rule, show signs of desiring to go to nest until about the middle of February to the beginning of
March here in Northern California, That is why many breeders use light and heat to fool mother nature and our little progenitors. Such may be seen when operations are carried out in a heat and light induced breeding room.
On the other hand, if the birds come into condition to
early, you can limit the diet to a staple of roller mix, green food, mineral grit and water. When the birds come into normal breeding condition it is better to take the risk of mating them. If the day and night temperatures are fairly equal all will go well. But the breeder who keeps his birds under different
conditions and in unheated rooms must not delude himself in trying to emulate the example of early mating and put his birds together to early. Birds being prepared for breeding may be given a more liberal diet. More rape seed may be added and a mixture of equal parts hemp, poppy seed and thistle may be given.
As always, a spray of greens (kale, Swiss chard, endive, watercress, broccoli, escarole, dandelion leaves and roots, etc.) should be given daily when the weather is favorable for gathering. Do not give green stuffs that are gathered in frosty weather, unless it has been allowed to thaw indoors for an hour of two.
It is best not to give it all if such conditions exists.
How is the beginner to know when his birds are in breeding condition? If your birds are in good health the signs are easily distinguishable. When the male is seen frequently near the hen's flight, assuming it is close, and is calling (singing loudly) toward that flight his is showing signs of breeding condition.
As hens approach breeding condition, they travel around the perches excitedly. She responds quickly to the 'calls" of the male and gathers feathers from herself or other hens in the flight. Due to this feather gathering urge, it may be prudent to add a handful of nestling material, a single large feather or a
piece of unraveled string may be tied to the wires. It will also make it easier to identify the 'ready condition' as it were. When the pair of birds you wish to breed exhibit such behavior, by all means put them together at the proper time, the hen will be sifting on her first nest of eggs at the end of two weeks
from when the male was introduced.
While the birds are being brought into condition, the breeder should take time to overhaul the breeding cages. In a final inspection, see that the seed and water cups fit securely without binding, that perches and nests are firm and secure and that a piece of cuttlebone is in each cage. I like my nests to be
mounted on the cage front in front of but not to near on of the two upper perches. Some prefer nests at the back of the cage, affording the hen more privacy but one cannot see into the nest freely in this position. The other side of that wisdom is that it is tempting to develop a habit of interfering with the hen
The breeder should also use this slack period to go carefully over each bird's good and bad points. You can then come to a decision as to which birds should form a promising pair. It is not my intention to go into the pluses and minuses of line breeding or the cultivation of specific tours. There are a few
general guidelines to keep in view from the very start of dabbling in the are of Roller Canary breeding.
- The breeder who wants to raise good sized birds (of both good vitality and heavy in body) cannot expect to do so by mating two puny finch size birds together. The roller breeder must have size in one of the parents if not in both to obtain large birds.
- That two birds both possessing glaring faults, particularly the same fault, or any point it is not desired to pass on to the young ones, should never be mated.
- In selecting breeding stock, the new breeder should mate a yellow (ranges from pale lemon to rich orange, the color continues right at the edge of the feathers) with a buff (essentially a yellow whose
color stops just short of the edge leaving a narrow margin of white around the edge of the feathers: the bird looks as if it were dusted with talc) or a variegated and refrain from "double yellowing" or 'double buffing." In other words, do not breed yellow to yellow or buff to buff until some breeding experience has
been gained. Studies show that, in general, yellows give color and feather quality, the buffs tend to give size weight and a heavy feather covering. Variegated birds usually lend a natural depth of color not withstanding the fact that greens are the natural color source. Of course these and particularly the
are general guidelines from which experienced breeders may deem advisable to deviate from. All of these considerations come simply with in the scope of the individual breeder.
Moving from the General to the Specific
Breeding and raising Roller Canaries is a rather breeder specific subject but since I have started, I will finish without prejudice. The best place to start may be with a small
faction who would discard egg in all forms from a canary's diet. Such objections to egg are based on facts which have been proven by
scientific experimentation. Briefly, the objections are that egg is one of the best mediums for cultivating the bacilli which causes terrible scourge of the bird breeder, "septic fever" (AKA salmonella or food poisoning). So it is during the breeding season, when the resistive powers of the birds to disease are
lowered. that the septic bacilli is supplied with the favorable breeding ground: hard boiled egg. In such an environment disease is quickly bred to dangerous virulence. Of course years ago, egg food really was 'egg" food which included hard-boiled eggs. Experience breeders have learned much in the way of hygiene,
and healthful surroundings for their birds. It now is possible to use the old formulas if strict hygiene is observed. Most choose a much more reliable and simple form of nestling food now, however. These "new" ways still involve eggs but in a much 'safer" form be it Abba Green, Quicko, Cee Dee or homemade cornbread
concoctions. All of these formulas have egg in varying degrees. I prefer to steer a middle course and use
corn bread and soaked seed. corn bread is very simple to make.
You simply take two packages of Jiffy corn bread mix, five eggs, 1/2 cup milk or three ounces concentrated baby formulas, and optional dash of honey. Mix these ingredients thoroughly and pour into a ten inch square pan.
Bake the ingredients at 375 degrees for about 30-45 minutes. Crumble the cooled
corn bread in a bowl mix in one tablespoon brewers yeast and a handful of raw wheat germ and it is ready to go. You may want to add a bit of water to moisten the mix if it is found to be lacking in kind.
My soaked seed mix if fairly simple. It consists of the following: 4 handfuls of rape, 2 handfuls wheat, 2 handfuls buckwheat, 2 handfuls hemp, 2 handfuls safflower and 2 handfuls of canary treat. Place these seeds in a half gallon jar (I find pickle jars are perfect to this; washed of course).
Fill the jar with warm water and add about three drops of bleach. Prepare this in the morning allowing it to soak overnight. The next morning empty the jar into a strainer, rinse with cold water and let stand with a covering of paper towel or cardboard. Rinse again in the afternoon and by the
next morning it should be ready for use. Remember to prepare only as much as will last about three days. This quality will tend to fluctuate as more young are hatched. It may help to have one small and one large strainer to accommodate this. I also rinse my soaked seed before each use
(morning, noon, and early evening). Feed the mothers with young as much corn bread
as she will use between each feeding period. I also provide my hens with as much kale as they require (generally one small piece a day). the other aforementioned brand name nestling foods can be used in place of
corn bread mix. Their value can be equal or superior. They generally contain preserved yolk egg or egg flake, crushed biscuit or bread crumbs and various vitamins and supplements. The breeder adds water to the desired quantity and it is ready to serve.
There are also alternate methods that have come to the author via breeders complaining of hens refusing to feed egg food. Although as a general rule, Roller hens are excellent feeders, some hens of his did not care for egg food. So much so that rather than feed it to their young they would
let them starve. His problem may have been in not providing an alternate like soaked seed. He developed a new feeding system from this. He used freshly ground hemp, wheat and steel cut oats with a supplement of watercress given daily. The hens fed it very well. It proved successful and
economical for him. We must realize, however, that the grind must not be left in the cage for more than a day, as hemp can become rancid quickly in warm weather. This method should also be watched carefully as some cases may arise where hens may start nestling again before one brood is able
to leave the nest. In that case the supply of hemp should be withheld until the young are self sufficient. It is also important that the hemp seed be of good quality. Hemp seed with discolored brown kernels or with a large portion dried up in the husk is unfit for feeding Rollers, be they
young or old. It could cause you to lose whole young birds. So even if this is mentioned as an alternative. It is not without problems.
Feeding the Young
When the hatching process is completed the breeder should begin to supply 'egg food' to each hen with as much as she needs to last until the next feeding period. This amount will change over time as the young need progressively more nourishment. This is generally why I feed mine three times
a day whenever possible. Not only can I monitor feeding quantity but the youngsters' progress. Do not try to economize with your feeding. Give the hen whatever she requires, and no more, to raise her brood. Scrimping here is only false economy. Try to feed your hens on a strict time schedule.
When this plan is adhered to the birds are most likely to feed the young as soon as each fresh supply of food is given, This method demands regularity but as this guideline is followed it becomes easier and the advantages gained by this are very great. Do not disturb the hen when sifting.
Some hens are very nervous in this respect. Also do not be over anxious to look into the nest when hatching is due. Leave the hen to herself. If you find the hen off the nest, you may take advantage of this but do not drive her off to satisfy your curiosity. Then there are the other hens
that you cannot remove from the nest!
As the Days Progress
After the first three days the increased demands of a healthy nest of youngsters will become apparent. If the hen is doing her jog, the supply of food will soon need to be doubled and the tripled. From the fifth day onward I usually start supplying the hen with soaked seed in addition to the
corn bread mix. Under this schedule, my broods thrive, flourish and generally are able to leave the nest from the seventeenth to twenty-first day after hatching. In other cases however things may take a different turn at any stage of development. If this happens it can really destroy a
From the time the young are hatched until they are quite able to take care of themselves in the nest, the breeder should not make a point of taking a glance, as unobtrusively as possible, at the nests every morning and night. Try to get a glimpse of the birds heads as they raise them when
expecting feeding, in order to see whether a chick has been thrown out or died (heaven forbid!) within it. In the
latter case, remove it as soon as possible. If a chick is found on the cage floor and still is lively, hold it between your palms and breathe on it until it becomes warm. Then gently replace it. Should the chick appear cold and lifeless do make assumptions and throw it away.
Warm it with you
palms as before but cup your hands on each other and breathe into them. I have seen my father save many chicks over the years with ten to fifteen minutes of this treatment. If it shows signs of life in this time let it thoroughly warm then replace it in the nest. Next morning it will often be impossible to tell which young
one it was. Sometimes, however, it is necessary to notice a lost cause. A bird being thrown from the nest is a terrible thing to happen. This sometimes happens to a hen having overgrown claws or the chick simply stick to the mother's feathers when she leaves the nest to obtain food for her brood. In cases where young are
being continually dragged out of the same nest, it is a good idea to catch the hen and examine her claws. If they are overgrown, you have neglected an important factor. Before any hen enters one of my breeding cages, her nails are inspected for excessive length. If they are to long, I carefully trim the claws to a reasonable
length. Be careful not to cut too close to the vein which runs down them and consequently make the
bird's claw bleed. This can be avoided easily as the vein can be seen with the claw is held up to bright light. I trim my bird's claws with a sharp pliers type nail cutter while the claw is held to the light source.
Trim about l/8th of an inch from the vein ending.
Young may also end up on the floor due to young excitable hens which have a habit of flying off the nest directly onto a perch; particularly if the nest rim is lower in height that the perch. Either raise the nest or lower the perch forcing the hen to stand in the nest so that she can see the perch before leaving the nest.
Another trouble that a new breeder may come across is a hen refusing, from the very beginning, to feed the young. Sometimes it may be sheer nervousness and keeping the hen as quiet and secluded as possible for a few days will have a good result. More often with such hens the first brood is lost if quick action in not taken.
That is why I advised earlier to try to have hens go to nest about the same time. You may find that a hen with only one young one is a bigger treasure than first thought as a foster mother. It is then up to the breeder to decide if he should chance using the 'non-feeding' hen again. I had luck with
later broods from such
hens but I have also had headaches.
Once last trouble I will cover is on of the hen feeding well for the fist three or four days and the young seen to falter. This is generally believed to be a 'non virulent' form of septic bacilli. This again brings up the egg problem but that is not the end all cause of the problem. It could come from many things but the
cure is usually a broad base, water soluble antibiotic.
Administered at a reduced dosage for three days, it is dispensed with. I use OXY WS which is an oxytetracycline hydrochloride power. An amount able to cover the head of a pin is mixed within the drinking water. This amount should only tint the water a pale yellow. OXY WS is available from Jeffers (1 -800-JEFFERS) and
is useful for many other maladies as well. You can also use whatever broad based antibiotic you are familiar with at a reduced rate.
That is about all for now, I hope I have shared a wealth of information rather than made the reader feel as a port for a ship of useless knowledge. Remember 'what is one man's poison is anther's meat" is also true in bird life.
If you take nothing else from this. We should consider this when preparing our birds for the breeding season. What has worked in the past will work for you in the future.
Breeding Season Tips
By Steve Billmire
This is the time of year that most experienced breeders are getting excited about the upcoming breeding season, and the novice breeders are often puzzled why their birds are not 'ready" yet. Getting your birds ready for the breeding season is done in part by nature, and part by the breeders techniques he or she employs
daily into their program throughout the year. Many breeders seem to use artificial lights (timer activated before sunrise) to simulate longer daylight hours. The novice should be aware of the rational behind this: First, the longest day of the year is June 21, the shortest Dec 21, and the two equinoxes (periods of equal
light and dark) are March 21 & Sept 22. Second, having raised birds naturally has shown that the birds peak breeding cycle occurs after the equinox and before the longest day of year. Therefore by using lights the breeder simulates the April/May/June timeframe, during February/March/April. He gets in and out.
Advantages are the young males song may be more matured and developed for the fall shows, and you avoid any unexpected hot weather in June. For years I didn't use lights and still raised over 75 birds per year. However I had to be patient with the birds since they really did not come in until April. Sure there were a
few in March, but it was April when it all happened. Weather is a heavily weighted factor without lights.
A simple technique to screen your hens for being 'ready" is to install some spare nests in the flight. Introduce nestling material and watch the hens start playing with the material and building nests. As they do you can pick them out with a water gun/garden sprayer and put them up in the breeding cage.
At that time be sure to inspect their vents. They should be red and swollen. This means their "ready".
These hens should spin a nest within a couple of days. Sometimes it takes a male in with her to encourage her, others need no help.
Once she spins a tight nest you may want to inspect her again. Her vent should be even larger and red. Add the male of your choice and leave him until they mate, or until the third egg is laid. Although the
is not practical due to timing with other hens. Keep in mind that using this
method you will miss a hens 'cycle' and put her up too late, or too soon. In this case put her out back out to the flight for 6-1 0 days while keeping a careful watch on her. Colored plastic marker bands are well suited for this. Especially if you have a lot of straight yellow hens without variegation markings.
Until the hen lays her entire clutch of eggs, although she may set on the eggs, she generally will not start incubation. This incubation is a higher heat expelled to initiate embryo development. (1 4 day gestation) Check for fertility at 5-7 days, after incubation, by candling the eggs. I use a small mini flashlight
gripped in the hand as you would a broom stick. Point the light up towards your eyes and hold the light head by the bottom two fingers. Now place the single egg in the natural cradle created by your forefinger and thumb. This method allow direct focus on the egg. If fertile, you can see the embryo's blood vessels
and dark area's. Remember the last egg may be a day or two behind the rest, depending on when she started incubating. At about 12-13 days I spray the eggs in the nest lightly using warm water from the sprayer. Some breeders float the eggs in a small bowl of warm water.
The intent here is to soften the shell for the young to escape. The latter process may be more risk than its worth. You risk cracking eggs taking the nest out more than once, (counting the check for fertility), and after all this doesn't happen in nature unless the hens take a bath?
Feeding the young ones can be done using soaked seed atone, however a combination of nestling food with fresh soaked seed is better. (Reference Justin's article) I use wheat bread quarters with a table spoon or so of ABBA green 92 and a small glass cup of soaked seed. Keep in mind once the babies hatch the hens usually
will not feed much nestling food. Observe how clean the nest is the first four days. She
cleans the droppings and feeds the babies with the her own milk and this 'stuff. After 5 days she will be progressively using more soaked seed and nestling food. Give her plenty of what she prefers during this time and watch the babies.
They can be safely banded after 6 days. Banding too soon results in bands coming off in the nest, too late (1 0 days) and you don't get it done. Watch for mites on your babies. A hen will abandon a nest of that has mites. Thus you lose all. This problem has occurred to all experienced breeders at one time. Careful
examination of the babies throat and external skin color should reveal a bright red color. If not, you may have a problem of the hen not feeding, infection, or possibly mites. Red Mites are visible and spread fast through a nest 2-3 days, with lethal affects. The way to fight mites is through prevention and pest control.
Clean your breeding boxes and perches with a disinfectant before the breeding season. Mites live in the cracks of the wood, and sometimes are transferred in from the hen. Many theories are maintained on this subject.
Truth is that when you have mites you must work fast to eliminate them. Some breeders put a pinch of snuff under the nest to prevent mites.
As you can see there are many challenges in breeding season. Bear in mind that its not a race to the 'roller breeders circle", but a long way from nest to the show winners bench in December. So be patient with your birds, don't rush them before their ready just because other breeders have eggs, or babies on the stick.
Big Deal!!! Your breeding program is running its own race. Let your birds dictate the pace. Lastly if a problem comes up, egg bound, mites, etc.... don't hesitate to call on one of the Master Breeders of the club for advice, or just to ask a question about a something your unsure of. We are a club to help the novice and
promote the fancy. A wasted few days could result in unnecessary losses in the breeding room. Best of Luck to all !!
ROLLER CANARY HIGHNOTES is Published by the Oakland International Roller Canary Club to improve the advancement. breeding, and exhibition of
Hopefully it will encourage the promotion of the fancy and instruct our members who are not able to attend our regular monthly meetings. The opinions of the writers do not
necessarily reflect the opinions of the Club nor it's officers. We encourage all members and readers to feel free to send in comments, questions, and any articles they would
like to see printed. Judges, Master Breeders, Champion, Amateur, and Novice breeders
of Roller Canaries are cordially asked to contribute articles for publication.
Subscription price of HIGHNOTES is per year for Non-OIRCC Members. Back issues are $2.00 per copy. Steve
Billmire - High Notes Editor.
Last modified: January 28, 2012
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